Let me first explain that we are now officially into the slow cooked meat season and that immediately means pasta Bolognese to me. So, last night I made my Bolognese meat sauce but this time I decided to make it with spaghetti , rather than my usual lasagna.
Years ago, while shooting a cooking special in Italy, I had the privilege of visiting Bologna – the capital of Emilia-Romagna in northern Italy which completely changed my lasagna world forever. It inspired this lasagna Bolognese recipe which features very thin layers of hand made pasta , a rich slow cooked meat sauce and layers of slightly runny béchamel sauce with freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. It cuts with a fork and melts in your mouth. My mouth is watering.
Wanting to elaborate on the Bolognese meat sauce method for this piece, I went back to my recipe notes and checked with several credible sources only to find that spaghetti Bolognese does not really exist as a dish. What? You might find that surprising, as it’s on countless restaurant menus but to split Italian hairs, spaghetti is made only in the south where they use dried durum wheat pasta and they would never use a Bolognese , meat sauce on top. On the other hand , in Bologna they love their meat sauce but they only serve it with fresh egg noodles like tagliatelle or fettucini – made from a softer wheat .
Then there’s the issue of the sauce. Does it have cream or milk? Is it beef, veal or pork? What about garlic? And red or white wine? Well, this opens a whole new can of tomatoes, so I want to take you back to Bologna , where I first learned how to make the Bolognese meat sauce.
Only in Italy can being known as, “ The Fat One”- la grossa, be a compliment. In fact, it is one of the pseudonyms of the wealthy Bologna. The fat , refers to its ancient reputation as a food loving town. It was a way of life and the souvenirs of those days are still evident.
My source was the chef of a little restaurant tucked away in the old town called Silverio’s. Making my way through the tiny entrance, I could see and feel the past enveloping me. The walls were a white stucco separated by massive rustic wood beams and glass cases filled with cooking utensils from the 13th and 14th centuries. This was not going to be any ordinary culinary experience.
Silverio popped his head out of the kitchen, cigarette dangling from his mouth, and greeted us with freshly brewed espresso. It didn’t take me very long to realize that he didn’t speak a word of English. Well, that was as good a time as any, to put my few Italian words to use. Anyone who could speak a word of English seemed to vanish from the room and Silverio rambled on as though I had just received my Italian language master’s degree.
Luckily, Silverio’s culinary visuals needed no translation. He dazzled me with his shaping, filling and rolling pasta techniques and before we knew it our time together on camera had come to an end and I think I hit the bulls-eye in the credible source department with Silverio.
He advises that traditional says , to use a combination of cream and milk, that it is usually beef with some pork added, no garlic and white wine with the addition of beef broth and some tomato. If I only called my dish Christine’s spaghetti and meat sauce , things would have been very simple. As soon as you go using traditional words like Bolognese , you have to back them up.

